Monday, February 29, 2016

Osswald Parfumerie + Luxury Skincare Boutique

Photo from
Despite the noise, grime, and sheer masses of people, New York is one of my "happy places." Why? Because I am a fragrance lover, a "perfumista" if you will, and NY is chockablock with places to sniff (and buy) perfume. Oh, sure, one can buy scent at any old department store in any old city, but there are few mass-market fragrances that I find appealing enough to wear. The scents that I find most interesting, that are most interesting, are in the niche category. (Please prounounce that neesh, and not nitch, which sounds ugly and harsh).

On a recent trip to NY, I made a point to visit Osswald, a Swiss-based beauty company with a branch in SoHo. It was crazy cold and windy, but I was going to be in the neighborhood and had a few hours between stops. What better way to spend that time than to discover a new fragrance? Osswald carries lines that, while familiar to me from internet shopping, I had not encountered in person, MDCI, Parfumerie Générale, and Profumum Roma, to name but three.

Ordinarily, I like browsing without the aid of a sales associate, but fragrance shopping is often best done with some help. I was fortunate enough to be the sole customer for quite a while, and was able to have the undivided attention of the very knowledgeable Daisy Bow. She made my experience at Osswald extremely pleasant, introducing me to scents I might not have chosen on my own. (I think the bitter cold may have been on my side, keeping other shoppers away.)

If you're in that neck of the woods, perhaps visiting Aedes on Greenwich St at Christopher in the West Village, I recommend making the 20 minute walk down Sixth Avenue into SoHo. Osswald is definitely worth the trip, even in windy 15°F weather.

Osswald Parfumerie + Luxury Skincare Boutique
311 W Broadway (Soho)
New York, NY 10013

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Saturday, February 27, 2016

Project Runway All Stars Season 5 Episode 3

One of Alyssa's looks this week didn't make me shake my head. Not this one.

She's wearing a Hefty bag, or at least a dress made from a shiny, garbage bag-like material. Maybe it's leather, but maybe it's not. She brings out four other people to join her on the runway, two male and two female. They are Little Big Town, country music performers who have apparently won four Country Music Awards, a Grammy, and an Emmy--a Daytime Emmy for Outstanding Original Song, which puts them in the same category as Sesame Street (only Sesame Street is more entertaining, IMHO). In any case, the band has one fuzzy-headed blonde and one straight-haired brunette, plus two dudes that we don't really care about for this challenge. The blonde and brunette are opposites, see? Not really, both are about the same height, weight, and age. But the brunette, Karen, is apparently more rock and roll. I guess that makes the blonde more country, even though, you know, um, they're both country singers.

Because the girls are so vastly different, like Donny and Marie, the challenge posed to the designers is to create red carpet looks that represent a dichotomy. Oh, and they have to do it in pairs, which of course is a whole 'nother challenge unto itself. Right away Ken is bitching about not wanting to work in teams. Yeah, yeah, we know - you're not here to make friends. Gotcha.

Sam won last week's challenge, so he's tasked with matching everyone up. He chooses Kini for himself, because, as he so succinctly phrases it, "I'm not stupid." Kini is the best seamster in the group, and he works fast. Plus, he's not a bitch, so if Sam needs help, Kini is there to assist. Sam also pairs Asha and Alexander, Layanna and Emily, Ken and Dom, Valerie and Stella. Daniel and Mitchell are left (why they are even still around at all is a mystery), so they are stuck with each other, much to Mitch's chagrin. Each pair gets $600 to spend at Mood between them, which seems generous.

In the workroom, Daniel is trying to school Mitchell, who, admittedly, needs some help. But Daniel isn't exactly the best role model for Project Runway contestants. Grumpy Mitchell needs to get some air, otherwise he'll have a hissy fit meltdown right there on the spot. Daniel's not exactly wrong, is he? Even Zanna agrees with him when he says he plans to help Mitch with editing his look.

Not only are Daniel and Mitchell not getting along, neither are Stella and Valerie. According to Sam--whose method of pairing involved picking designers whose personalities were different--Valerie is bubblegum and Stella is tar. Not so much opposites, as both are pretty difficult to scrape off the bottom of one's shoe.

He also says Layanna is "super couture" and Emily is more street. But how are the others so opposite? Ken is bitchy and Dom is nice? I suppose Asha and Alexander's opposition occurs in the obvious female/male, straight/gay, and black/white categories. They do have a similarity: neither are particularly strong in the eyebrow department, but at least Asha has them.

Meanwhile, Sam and Kini are pretty satisfied with their designs until Zanna tells them she's worried. Sam's seems sort of current, but Kini's is from the 90s. They are such different looks, and not in a good way. Kini's solution is to feminize Sam's top by adding a tulle tornado of an overblouse. He's worried that if Sam's look isn't up to snuff, they'll be on the bottom, so he also takes charge of Sam's pants, as Sam doesn't seem to know how to finish them. Kini puts in the zipper and hook-and-eye closures and makes sure the side seams are aligned properly and the waistband is fixed. But Kini doesn't seem to do anything to make his own gown less "90's" and more now, which might become an issue later.

Valerie introduces Stella's look to Zanna by saying her girl "would cut someone if they got in the way." Stella takes umbrage.

Zanna thinks Val's look might come from a bridal store, while Stella's would be from an S&M shop. Stella once again disagrees. She seems very touchy this season. And why on earth did she buy black vinyl tablecloth fabric for her dress? Was she inspired by Alyssa's opening look?

Over on the other side of the room, we hear not a word from Dom and Ken, who seem to be getting along just fine. Ken offers up the opinion that Mitchell's girl looks like she got caught in some 80-year-old's trash. I have to agree.

The next day, as the designers are attempting to get things finished, Stella and Valerie skirmish over the proper way to make a belt. Val is being helpful, and Stella is just abrasive. I had always felt that she was completely loveable, despite her spiky-ness, but something has changed in the years since her last appearance on Project Runway. She also doesn't seem to like when Valerie takes control over the girls at the Hair Club for Women and Obscure Make-up Line Studios, where she tells the makeup and hair people that hers is Grace Kelly but Stella's is Joan Crawford. Of course, Stella may be thinking of Crazy Eyebrows, Crazy Lips Joan, whereas Valerie was probably just thinking of a good contrast for Grace Kelly.

After all the models go through hair and makeup and designers ransack the Christian Siriano for Payless Shoes and Heidi Klum Plagiarized Jewelry Collections, the models are sent down the runway.

Alyssa, wearing something black once again, looks pretty decent this time. Her outfit is generic, but at least it's not cray-cray.

Karen Fairchild and Kimberly Schlapman have jettisoned the male members of Little Big Town and are sitting in judgement along with Iconic Fashion Designer Isaac Mizrahi and Mrs Weinstein.

Daniel and Mitchell's dichotomy is pleasure and pain. But there is only gross discomfort present on the runway. Daniel's model is showing underboob, sideboob, and everything else. Presumably his look is pain, however, Mitchell's old lady nightgown hurts my eyeballs.

They are predictably on the bottom, along with Stella and Valerie. Valerie's look is actually great, and Stella's would be, too, had she not used that hideous fabric. Perhaps if it had been less cooch-tastic and if she had lined the inside of the skirt, it would have worked better.

Personally, I think Emily and Layana should have been on the bottom. Layana's dress had this weird puckering thing going on around her model's ass, and Emily's pants were awful. Stella's dress, while the fabric was terrible, was nicely made. And certainly she and Valerie's theme of Naughty and Nice worked better than Emily and Layana's Bride and Groom (are they really opposites?)

On top are Asha and Alexander, Sam and Kini.

Alyssa says that Sam's look is possibly her favorite look of all the challenges in the three years that she has been hosting All Stars, although she doesn't think it's red carpet appropriate. Kini is doing a slow burn.

Nobody says that Kini's looks like it came out of the 90s, but they note that it's not exactly flattering when not in motion.

Asha and Alexander not only did the whole opposites theme right--Light and Dark--but they styled their models to look similar to the girls from Little Big Town. I think the big bushy curls on Asha's model, mirroring those of Kimberly Schlapman, probably helped work some subliminal magic on the judges.

The Tops are sent back offstage and the Bottoms are brought out to talk about their ugly rags. It's pretty obvious that nobody really hates Stella's and Valerie's looks, so nobody will be going home from that team. And then they get to Daniel and Mitchell.

Mitchell makes Daniel talk about the looks first, saying that they were his idea. Daniel, who is clueless that he's being gently nudged toward the oncoming large multi-passenger motor vehicle, says his look is edgy and would be great on the red carpet. The female judges look slightly uncomfortable at the thought of showing off their knickers. Isaac says there is "something objectifying about it, and not in a good way." As if objectifying something can ever be done in a good way.

I just love Isaac's expression here.
Georgina defends Daniel's look, saying she loved the lines of the top, and had the skirt been lined to the ground, it would have been "sophisticated and elegant." They agree that the leather lace fabric he used is quite nice.

And then they get to Mitchell. It seems to me that Alyssa and Georgina are tiptoeing around him with compliments; they say things like "great ideas, incredibly creative," and "an artist." Isaac says his mind "is full of light, as opposed to darkness." It's a bit placating. If you look at his portfolio on the Lifetime site, there are just some short dresses in a stretchy material. Nothing particularly creative about any of them. Dunno. But the dress he made for this challenge is simply awful. The shiny pink skirt fabric looks cheap, there doesn't seem to be any real design behind the overskirt (done in another shade of pink that doesn't seem to go), and the feathers attached to the print fabric on the bodice just seem a bit crazy.

But Daniel is out.  Because his look was "disrespectful" and showed too much skin. Tell these ladies.

I think the producers had total control of the result of this contest. They may even have been feeding lines to the judges. Daniel is boring, but Mitchell brings the drama. Who would they rather keep on board?

Asha and Alexander are the winners, which of course they did completely deserve (although I thought Alexander's look was just slightly underwhelming) and their looks will be worn at the upcoming Academy of Country Music Awards. Probably altered and over-styled, but we'll see.

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Friday, February 26, 2016

Flashback Friday - The Fashion Show Postmortem

This post was originally published on the blog Blogging Bravo on July 30, 2009.

The Fashion Show Postmortem

I used to write for Blogging Bravo, and one of the shows I covered there was one of Bravo's attempts at replacing Project Runway. Called "The Fashion Show," it wasn't bad, yet it wasn't particularly good, either.

The first season of The Fashion Show ended a week ago today; it's about time to take a look back and tear it apart make a critical assessment. A postmortem, if you will.

The show had both good and bad points. While I think we all were expecting it to be a real replacement for Project Runway, sadly, The Fashion Show did not deliver. Not that it was a bad show - I think if we didn't make comparisons to that other show, it could have seemed pretty fabulous. It gave us a bunch of talented up-and-coming designers, showing off their design skills while vying for both a cash prize and national recognition. But somehow it didn't seem to rouse the same passion in the viewer, didn't make us fall in love (or hate) with any one designer in particular. From what I can tell, it evoked a lot of general ennui. And some downright dislike.

What I Liked:

...Isaac Mizrahi being involved with the show, and the influential and knowledgeable Fern Mallis as judge.

...having a "quickfire"-type mini challenge and an elimination challenge.

...the home audience choosing the winner - as Issac says in the intro, TFS is about "real fashion for real people" and who is more real than those of us watching?

...the winning outfit available for purchase.

That's a pretty short list.

What I Disliked:

...Isaac Mizrahi as judge. While we like him in general and enjoyed watching him on his own show, he came off as a bit catty - ok, bitchy - on TFS. This is a man with a wealth of knowledge about the fashion industry and he could have been an enormous help to the designers as a mentor.

While we're on the subject of catty, I wasn't that crazy about the little conversations Isaac and Kelly would pretend to have after paying a visit to the designers in mid-process. "OMG! did you see that?" seems more appropriate coming from the NYC Prep kids than from professionals in the fashion industry. Well, Kelly isn't a professional, which brings us to...

...why Kelly Rowland? Because she sat in the front row at fashion shows? Wow, that makes me just as qualified! I think it would be fine if she were merely the hostess, but she is also a judge. I consider her neither a fashion professional nor a "real person" (she's a celebrity). I don't dislike Kelly, but I don't find her to be of much use to the show in general.

...while I did like the two-challenge-per-episode format, the time spent on the first challenge took away from time that could have been spent watching the designers interacting. Other than the bitchery between Daniella and Reco, we didn't get to see much of the designers' personalities, or how they bonded, something we're all used to on shows like PR and Top Chef. Face it - human interaction is part of the "reality" in a reality show.

...the overall look of the show was a bit drab and depressing. The workroom seemed gray, and was it really always night outside the windows? The lighting on the runway was also somehow off. The judging room was positively funereal.

...the cute catchphrases the Isaac and Kelly used when they cut a competitor. On Project Runway, Heidi's "auf wiedersehen" is natural - it means farewell, or until we meet again, in German. Heidi is German. Makes perfect sense. Every show now has to have its own version, and most are cheeseball. TFS is no exception, "we're not buying it" - ugh. And if that's not bad enough, Kelly has to say to the penultimate loser, "you're hanging by a thread." Or does she say...

That's what it sounds like to me.

Those are some of my thoughts. I also, for the most part, agree with Tom & Lorenzo's "Mid-Term Report." They have really contemplated the show and give some fabulous suggestions on improving things.

So what do you like and dislike about The Fashion Show? Do you want to see it come back for a second season? Would you make changes? Please leave your thoughts in the comments.

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Tuesday, February 23, 2016

What Dresses Will We See at the Oscars This Year?

The Oscars are coming up on Sunday, February 28th,. While I don't care one way or the other about who wins and who loses, I love to watch the stars' arrival on the red carpet. Who will be on the best and worst looks? Which designers will be represented?

I looked through a selection of recent fashion shows (Spring 2016 Couture and Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear) and picked out some of my favorite looks from each designer. I stuck to designers who are red carpet regulars. There are, of course, plenty more, and I may do a second post later in the week. For now, though, what do you think of these?

Armani Privé Spring 2016 Couture 

Giorgio Armani's collection is rife with lavender looks. The gown at bottom center seems most red carpet-ready to me, but I hope to see something more surprising, like top center or top right. Actresses we might see in Armani Privé include Cate Blanchett, Hilary Swank, Naomi Watts, and Uma Thurman.

Chanel Spring 2016 Couture

I wasn't especially impressed by anything in this collection, but we may see Kiera Knightly wearing one of these looks, most likely one from the top row. Other actresses who may wear Chanel include Julianne Moore, Kristen Stewart, Blake Lively, and Sarah Jessica Parker.

Zuhair Murad Spring 2016 Couture

I had to limit myself from six looks from this collection; there were several more that were definitely Oscar-worthy. Actresses who may wear Zuhair Murad include Catherine Zeta-Jones, Jennifer Lopez, and Chrissy Teigen.

Valentino Spring 2016 Couture

Valentino's collection was maybe slighty out there for the Oscars, but wouldn't it be great to see someone wear something different for a change? I'd love to see any of these on the red carpet.  Actresses who we may see in Valentino include Kirsten Dunst, Keira Knightly, and Anne Hathaway.

Alberta Ferretti Spring 2016 Couture

This whole collection is a knock out, with a very Downton Abbey 20's influence (as had many collections this season). Will anyone be bold enough to wear something like the first look? Probably not. Or maybe Kristen Wiig, Jada Pinkett Smith, Kate Beckinsale, Anna Kendrick, or Laura Dern will step it up this year.

Elie Saab Spring 2016 Couture

Elie Saab's collection is inspired by India. Will we see Jennifer Lopez and Emma Stone wearing this designer again this year? Kate Beckinsale, Mila Kunis may also choose Elie Saab.

Jenny Packham Fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Jenny Packham is another red carpet regula (and a big favorite of Kate Middleton). This collection harkens back to the 1970s and has a silhouette for just about every body. Julianne Hough, Vanessa Hudgins, Christina Hendricks, Sandra Bullock may wear this designer on Sunday.

Carolina Herrera Fall 2016 ready-to-wear

These two looks seemed most red carpet ready. Tina Fey, Renee Zellweger, Amy Adams, Christina Hendricks have all worn Herrera on the red carpet in the past.

Christian Siriano Fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Will we see any of these three Christian Siriano looks on the red carpet? I'm thinking #3, but it's pretty safe. Pretty please can someone wear #2? Christina Hendricks? Lady Gaga? Shailene Woodley?

Here's two more looks with potential.

Schiaparelli Spring 2016 Couture

Vivienne Westwood Red Label Fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Of course we'll see Dior, Givenchy, Prabal Gurung, Alexander McQueen, Gucci, and Versace on the red carpet as well. So what do you think my chances are? Will anyone wear any of the looks above?

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Monday, February 22, 2016

Maison Cyma, F/W 2016-2017

While in NY for Fall/Winter 2016-17 Fashion Week, I attended the show for Maison Cyma at the Affinia Manhattan on 7th Avenue. I found the collection to be romantic yet very urban, and the Montreal-based designers, Cynthia Girard and Mary-Jo Dorval, showed their skills at mixing textures. Most looks were black on black, with some browns and white, and many pieces incorporated fur. Fear not, PETA, it was all recycled, and detachable as well, so the garments could be worn without the fuzzy accents. They also did some interesting things with layered pockets, which of course works nicely on the typical rail-thin model, but maybe not so much on curvier figures.

Maison Cyma also uses fish leather (made from perch and salmon skins) in their designs.

Check out the video below to see all of their hard work.

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Saturday, February 20, 2016

Project Runway All Stars Episode 2

This week, on Project Runway All Stars:

The designers meet at the studios of the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater for a challenge that involves creating elegant and dramatic looks that show how fabric can move on the body and through the air. In other words, serve as a parachute in case the wearer is pushed out of a plane.

They are also treated by a mini performance by the Alvin Ailey dancers, who are elegant and dramatic themselves.

Sketching happens at the studio, then on to Mood to spend $300.

Back at the studio, everyone commences to sewing--after they play with the wind machine.

Mitchell has a problem with Sam, and the producers decide this is a grand time for them to have it out. It seems that Sam, who has been recapping all of the various PR shows on his blog, Sam Is Blond (even though his hair is really sort of light brown), said some weawwy mean and hurtful things about poow poow widdle Mitchell during his season. And maybe he did. Sam is not one to mince words--he says mean things about a lot of people. And for fuck's sake, that's the whole point of recapping. If you're just going to be nice to everyone about everything, it's not fun to read. Not at all. And it's certainly not fun to write. In any case, Sam is occasionally mean, to Mitchell and others, but he's also very astute, has a good eye, and makes a lot of really solid points about design and construction. And personality.

Advice to Mitchell and everyone else: if you don't like criticism, stay far away from the public eye.

Also, Mitchell--"slander" is spoken, while "libel" is in print.

Zanna Roberts Rassi then comes in for her critique. She looks pretty sharp in her oxblood leather dress. Considering how she usually looks like an escapee from the Asylum for Middle Aged People Who Dress Like Homeless Teens, and Alyssa has dressed fairly well in the past, I think their wardrobes have been switched this season.

She's super critical, and the designers really need that. Most of them seem to think that flowy fabrics are enough to meet the challenge, except for Stella, who has strips of leathuh streaming from the shoulders of her gown. All I could think is that I didn't want to be walking behind her gal in a windstorm. Losing an eye could be a very real proposition with those things whipping around.

She hates on Mitchell's dress, telling him he needs to edit. It's looking like bubblegum bondage, or as she puts it, "Barney meets Tinkerbell." I'm not seeing the Barney at all, but it makes for a great soundbite.

She gets to the point with Danielfranco, telling him basically that it looks like a big camo garbage bag. That's what I'd tell him, anyway.

Meanwhile, Daniel thinks that Vanessa's design looks the most like a prom dress, and that it's "borderline tasteless." And this is perhaps why he doesn't get very far in competitions. He doesn't understand what words mean, so can't apply them to his own work. 

The designers finish up the day without further incident.

The next morning, they have the usual short period of panic time before sending their models to the General Schwartzkopf Military Hair Salon and Laura Geller Warpaint Studio. The designers also pick accessories from the K-Mart Hooker Shoe Collection and Downright Ugly But It's A Sponsor So We Have to Use It Jewelry Wall.

Anyhoo, it's time for the runway show. But first, we have to pick apart poor, dear, Alyssa's wardrobe.

She's wearing a matching blue turtleneck and shorts. Wait. Let that sink in. Monochromatic turtleneck and shorts. Maybe from the Gap. What the everloving fuck? It's not flattering in any way, not cute. Not even Rihanna could make this get-up alluring, or even appropriate for judging a fashion show. I did, however, think of one person who could possibly pull off this look.

This week, Vanessa Hudgins is joining the usual "iconic" judges, Isaac Mizrahi and Mrs. Harvey Weinstein. Isaac is in his typical all-black uniform, and Georgina is wearing something she made out of recycled plastic grocery bags. Way to be eco-conscious!

The models parade down the runway. Asha's is pretty, but the way the pattern doesn't join flawlessly at the side seams bothers me. Valerie's flows beautifully (and is not at all tacky, Danielfranco). Alexander's drama comes from a cape that looks exactly like a big black parachute. The dress under it is merely semi-tacky lace fabric sewn over a black bodysuit. It's costume-y, and personally, I think it's awful. Sam's dress is quite dramatic, and owes a lot to the striped fabric he chose to use. Had it been a solid color, it might have been merely a resortwear dress with an overlong train. Ken's is very yellow. Danielfranco's dress is still not dramatic, elegant, or sexy. As he said in his own words, "it blows like crazy." Emily's dress is...well. Just a bunch of fabric tacked together in spots. With matching bermuda shorts. Stella's is fine. Black, of course, with leather and studs and whatnot, but pretty elegant. Not loving the cat o'hundred tails, but she's definitely safe. Fade sends an old lady down the runway. For an old lady, the look is pretty damn chic. The late Joan Rivers would have rocked the heck out of it. Overall, however, the floaty black and white fabric wasn't enough to balance the stiffness of the gold fabric underneath. And the styling is...not at all youthful. If the point of the challenge was to age the model, he would have won, hands down.

Mitchell's blue and pink nightmare now has dirty gray gills and fins attached to it. He thinks his design is "on point." Now, the phrase "on point" never made sense to me to begin with, partly because I'm old and don't understand modern slang. An attempt to clarify the situation by looking it up on the Interwebs only led to more confusion. has many definitions for the phrase "on point," from "satisfactory, meets standards," to "not to be stoned/drunk," to "gorgeous, sexy, without imperfection." There's also "tight, right on time, cautious," and "when something is ultimate perfection." But I feel the best and most true definition is this: "An expression that means immaculate, impeccable, flawless, superb, quintessential, or just simply good. Usually used by people who severely lack in vocabulary." 

You will never catch me saying "on point," because I have a vocabulary. 

God, I love being old sometimes. 

Dom's is fine. Lots of black. She calls it "angel of death." Kini's looks like candy corn come to life.

Kini, Valerie and Sam are on top. I like Val's best; there's something elegant about the simplicity of it. Sam gets the win, though, which probably irks Mitchell to no end.

Emily, Fade, and Alexander are on the bottom.
An aside: does anyone else think that Emily must be a fan of the Beast? Also, she must have had a cold (or maybe takes primal scream therapy) because she sounded very hoarse throughout the episode.

Alexander, who had the worst look in my book, was called out for his tacky "Wonder Woman" cuffs. And Isaac found Emily's nude bra, "unforgiveable." And poor Fade had so many problems with his look, from aging his model to not enough movement.

He's out.

Always a shame when the more arty designers are cut. It's not that they are bad at all, it's just that their non-conformity sticks out like a sore thumb. Taken by itself, Fade's dress is not a loser. Not by a long-shot. It just didn't adhere to the challenge's requirements as stringently as some of the other looks, even the ones on the bottom.

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Because of recent content theft, I am forced to add this new statement to the end of my posts: If you're reading this post anywhere besides the Opalescent blog, (also then this content has been stolen. Please do not support this thief!


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